![]() If it won't lock, first check the strike (the part that goes into the latch hole) for damage, like bending or breakage.These units have a latch as well as a door or lid switch. In order to operate the lid or door must be closed and locked. The motor will be mounted directly to the bottom of the outer wash tub along with two pumps. A quick check for this is to see if you can lift the basket of your machine about 20-25 mm(¾-1”) while it is still installed in the machine. If your machine is older and you just see the round cake-like motor on the bottom of the washer basket (usually tan-colored) then you may have a direct drive machine that uses a floating basket.You will also see the edges of a square metal gearcase that is a little larger than the motor itself. Newer Whirlpool top loaders also use direct drive motors so the tan “cake motor” will be there.The coupler is the object between the motor and the transmission it is shown closeup in the lower left photo with the yellow rectangle. The green rectangle is around the Transmission, the blue rectangle is around the motor and the brown rectangle is around the drain pump. If you see something like the photo to the right below, you have a Traditional Direct Drive washer. ![]() These are belt-driven, relatively simple machines that have several points of failure that are relatively easy to check. If you see something that looks like the photo to the left below, you know you have a unit that uses the Vertical Modular Washer design.You can take a look underneath your washer because you can be more sure of what you’re getting into. So for HE top load machines, they all might be called “Cabrio”. One more note: Whirlpool likes to use family names for machines that might have differing internal components. Note: If you replace a component on a machine with electronic controls, you should run a reset and a calibration/ recalibration Otherwise you may not clear the error. You have to run a Reset sequence on your machine if it has electronic controls.If it doesn't even respond to start, this isn't the place, you need to consider why the machine won't start at all.Your washing machine is plugged in and hasn't been accidentally unplugged.If there's no Traditional Machines section, just follow the main solution, as it doesn't differ from high-efficiency machines. If you've got an older top loader machine without a High-Efficiency badge, refer to the " Traditional Machines" sections, as these will cover older top loader machines mainly built before 2007. We will offer separate subheadings for Top Loaders and Front Loaders when the solutions differ. For High Efficiency (HE) machines, refer to the solution directly under each possible cause.
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